Build Updates 61- 78

"Old Guy Scott's" Black Widow - see the Build

AUTHENTIC BUILD OF A B"LACK WIDOW"

Before Photos

This is the retired "Old Guy Scott". He is in the beginning stages of his tribute car.

Pictures #1 and #2

Pictures #3, #4 and #5

Carbs & Linkage Hood Bracket

Radiator Air Ducting

Start Engine Paneling

Engine Start Video Sills & Bumper

Quarter Glass Pipes & Interior

Weather Stripping Door

Install Trunk Lid Door & Trim

Rear Compartment Panel Grill & Bumper

Polish Hood "Black Widow" Finished

71) Carbs & Linkage


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"Old Guy Scott" uses two Holly 500 CFM circle track carbs. Overhauling them first Photo #516 he will use the large steel needle and seat photo #517. He says the neoprene tip needle won't hold up if you accidentally use fuel with alcohol added. In Photos #518 and #519 you see "Old Guy Scott" running and adjusting each carb using the circle track adapter shown. This is all done on a test mule engine before installing on the "Black Widow". The important float level adjustments, photo #520 were made on the test mule engine. The throttle linkage is handmade photos #521 thru #524, this is vintage 1950's.

62) Radiator


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With a high compression racing engine like the "Black Widow" you needed the largest capacity radiator the factory could supply. This was the one, a four row high fin count radiator used on air-conditioned cars. The low fin count was used for dirt track, because it was less likely to clog up. "Old Guy Scott" said the lower spout was oval shaped and not long enough for the double clamped system used in 1957.

In photo #525 note the use of heat soaking putty around the spout to keep the soldering job intact. Photos #526 & #527 show how it was done and be sure to make the ring on the end so the hose won't blow off. On page twelve of the 1957 Chev. Competition Guide it says a shroud has to be made or modified to fit and in photo #529 shows it completed.

In photo #530 "Old Guy Scott" reminds you to make your own battery cables of double ott two welding cable. In the heat of circle track racing the engine may stall, these cables eliminate voltage drop and make the re-fire possible.

63) Start Engine


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After pressurizing the oil system with oil pump priming tool "Old Guy Scott" sets the ignition timing statically to ten degrees advance; photo #531. Next he pressurized the fuel system from tank to fuel pump and filled carburetor fuel bowls to sight plugs photo #532. The engine started on the first crank, this is most important to start up on first crank, because the cam lobes get splash from the rod bearings. The engine runs at 1500 to 2000 R.P.M. for thirty minutes. Photo #533 shows rear main seal area with fly wheel tin removed, no leak here. With engine running check for crankcase blow by photo #534. A little condensation vapor is normal, but if you see oil smoke, pull the engine out and rebuild it again. Blow by here means rings aren't sealing. With the racing cam setup this engine should idle at 1200 R.P.M. and have a minimum vacuum of fifteen inches; Photo #535. While running in for thirty minutes the oil pressure held eighty pounds pressure; photo #536. In photo #537 you see "Old Guy Scott" adjusting the valves after the first thirty minutes. These solid lifter engines need this adjustment often from now on.

64) Engine Start Video

First startup of period correct NASCAR racing engine "Old Guy Scott's Black Widow"(See next video below) .

The 57chevyblackwidow.com car leaves the yard.

65) Quarter Glass


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When you get ready to install the quarter glass "Old Guy" Scott" says to be sure to get each step in the correct order. In photo #538 you will need to install this front roller rail onto the roller after you set glass in, photo #539. Next install the widow whisker, photo #540. Then make sure to make any necessary repairs to the widow regulator, photo #541 & #542, and install it now. Put in the rear roller guide and connect roller. Hook up regulator roller and adjust front gap, photo #545, then adjust rear, photo #544.

66) Weather Stripping


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When installing the new weather stripping don't fasten and glue it until checking the pin location. You may have to relocate the holes in the rubber in order to fit properly, photo #546. In photo #549 & #550, "Old Guy Scott" reminds you to put a piece of paper towel on weather stripping and paint edge, then tape down the rubber only where necessary. Now is a good time to glue down the flap that tucks under the rear bumper, photo # 551 & #552.

67) Install Trunk Lid


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"Old Guy Scott" says Chevrolet uses a special type washer for the trunk lid bolts. You may have to trim one side to get the adjustment needed, photo #553. These washers distribute their holding power to the outer edge, don't make the mistake of using a normal flat washer. Take your time with alignment, photo #554 thru #560, you don't want to chip an edge. Photo #561 shows the final fit.

68) Rear Compartment Panel


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"Old Guy Scott" chooses Aluminum to panel the rear compartment, this was standard practice back then. Photo #562 thru #564 shows how to lay out and cut the pattern. In Photo #563 the photo shows the line where you bend the package tray panel to fit vertical panel. Next in photo #565 you lay out masking tape to mark where to drill the rivet hole. Starting in the center rivet in outward directions to avoid warping the finished product, photo #567.

69) Polish Hood


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In photo #568 you see "Old Guy Scott" wet sanding with #2000 grit and rubber block. Photo #569 shows un-sanded on the left and sanded on the right. "Old Guy Scott" is buffing hood in photo #570, enlarge the photo and check out that deep reflection. Photo #571 shows the final result. The amount of work involved in this paint job is really something.

70) Hood Bracket


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In the 1957 stock car racing season, as in all prior seasons, the front type hood latch and trunk lid required a bungee cord for added safety, (See "Competition Guide" page 17) the "Black Widow" must have these. In photo #572 you see how "Old Guy Scott" made the required hook and bracket assembly. Photos #574 & #575 show the end result. Some of the other competitors simply put a bolt thru the front of the hood. This is the much neater and stronger version.

71) Air Ducting


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In these photos you see "Old guy Scott" assembling the fresh air ducting and the very necessary rubber anti-squeak seals. In photo #582 and #583 you see the final sanding and polished result. Photo #584 shows fender, air ducting and inner panel skirt installed.

The back ground picture in photo #582 shows "Old guy Scotts" Monte Carlo being righted up when he rolled at the track on his 60th birthday.

72) Paneling


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In photos #586 & 587 you see "Old Guy Scott" made inspection covers and uses strip caulk to seal them from leaking into the new panel. Photo #591 shows the new upholstery pieces that need sewing. Photo # 588 is the padding being sprayed with glue to attach the panel, photo #589. Photo #590 you see the panel being laid onto the freshly glued surface of the padding. The #592 photo is a thick paper moisture barrier between the metal inner panel and new paneling, photo #593.

73) Sills & Bumper


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In photo #594 you see the painted sills, this is the same black paint as the body. In photo #595 & 596 the anti-rattle whiskers are installed and in photo #597 is the final result.

The flap in photo #598 is extremely important. If installed wrong the bumper will scoop up air, dust and dirt while driving and in no time the car will be covered with that dirt and dust.

Photo #600 shows the holes in the floor mat where the u-bolts will come up from around the frame to hold the roll bar in position.

74) Pipes & Interior


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Back in 1957 most stock car racing tracks were dirt, anything hanging down from under the car would be damaged due to the ruts. In photos #601 thru #604 you will see how "Old Guy Scott" makes the tail pipes step around the frame and exit in front of the rear tires. Some "Black Widows" went through the frame and some used this setup. Photo #605 you see the shifter setup completed and in #606 is the "Black Widows" roll bar setup completed.

75) Door


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In Photos #607 thru #609 "Old Guy Scott's" sands and polishes the door, put it on the door jack and installs it on the car. Photo #610 shows the double taped edges to reduce the risk of chipping. Photos #611 thru #613 you will see the metal door panel edges and attaching nails being installed. Rebuilding the side vent widow assembly will take extreme patience, photos #615 thru #617. First you need to remove the right rivets, the new chrome and glass come preassembled. In photo #617 you will see the assembly completed with new rubber and a perfect result.

76) Door & Trim


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"Old Guy Scott" is completing his third year of building his "Black Widow" and is nearing the end. In photo #620 you see the door on the door jack, this holds it in position to line up the guide pins and bolts. Photo #623 points out the window whiskers. These are riveted with one sixteenth rivets; the heads are toped with flat black so they won't show. Looking at photo #626, you feel like you are in a fifty two year old time warp getting ready for the season opener.

77) Grill & Bumper


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Photo #640 is your website author "Bev", check out those "Black Widow" earrings!

After three years work "Old Guy Scott" has finished his "1957 Chev. Stock Car Competition Guide" correct "Black Widow". It's ready to roll into NASCAR tech. inspection, only thing is "Old Guy Scott" is fifty two years late......

First you see "Old Guy Scott" finishing up the radiator support panels and gravel pans. Next is the grill and light bar. In photo #632 "Old Guy Scott" points out the front gravel pan rubber flap. Without this the area behind the grill will fill with dirt and mud. Next is the bumper, note the door jack also being used as the bumper holder, photo #636. In photo #638 "Old Guy Scott" points out the T-3 markings on the headlights, these are period correct markings. The car is nearly completed, photo #639.

78) Black Widow Finished


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